All about Lox

There’s lots to know about lox—it’s so much more than just salmon! It is smooth, buttery, flaky, delicately salty, and super healthy thanks to its Omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins, and protein of course. It also can be a very confusing thing—because although the word “lox” evokes the classic salmon slices topping a beautiful breakfast bagel, it can mean a few different things!

A brief history of lox

Lox originally comes from Scandinavian cuisine, but later took on widespread popular association with Jewish culture. The name, for example, has Yiddish roots. It wasn’t necessarily something that was brought by the Eastern European Jews to the United States like so many other deli staples, though—back in the day, lox had a high price tag that kept it out of kitchens of many immigrants to America. In the first half of the 1900’s, however, new railways could transport it from the west coast with ease, dropping the price. As a non-meat and non-dairy food (pareve) that didn’t spoil due to its cured nature, it became very popular among observant Jews.

Salmon fisher circa 1900 (University of Washington Library)

What is true lox? 

True lox is fatty salmon belly that has been salt cured for an extended period of time. Read that again: cured, but not smoked! Traditionally, that time period is three months. It is very salty, and it’s not actually as popular as its cousin, Nova lox.

What is Nova lox?

Nova lox differs from true lox in that it undergoes a cold smoking process. The thinly-sliced salmon you have in your mind’s eye (and mind’s mouth?) is probably actually this one. Many people who want this traditional preparation of salmon call it just “lox,” although because it is smoked it is not true lox, and would really more accurately be called “Nova cold-smoked salmon.” Cold smoking means a low temperature (70-120ºF) cook combined with a constant input of smoke into the cooking equipment. It is salt cured like true lox, but ends up being less salty and more flaky than true lox, and delicately, delicately thin. Contrary to its name, not all Nova lox comes from Nova Scotia, either—these days, salmon is primarily farmed or caught wild in Chile, Norway, and Alaska.

Good salmon should have a shiny, orange-red hue.

What’s the best way to combine bagels and lox?

With the addition of some creamy spread! Toasting might add too much crunch to be paired with this subtle texture. We at Gotham Bagels, recommend 2-3oz of lox per bagel sandwich. It is up to you!

Nova “lox” with plain cream cheese on a Gotham everything bagel

Bonus: hot-smoked salmon and Gravlax!

Here’s two more salmon-y options to confuse you: first, hot-smoked salmon. Cured salmon can also be prepared by hot smoking (also called kippering), in which it is smoked for about 8 hours at a higher temperature of 145ºF before packaging, adding a complex, rich cooked flavor. It’s often sold in thicker slices than cold-smoked (Nova) lox. There’s also Gravlax, a delicacy that is a twist on true lox and popular in Scandinavia. What makes this kind of salmon stand out is that it’s cured in sugar, salt, spices such as dill, and aquavit. Give it a try some time!